The long lunch is back, resurrected from the grave by the good people at Lock’s Brasserie, Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt. The simplest ideas are the best and what could be simpler than opening for lunch at 12.30 and remaining open right through until closing at the end of dinner service? (Thursday to Sunday inclusive.) Long lunchers are already beating a path to Lock’s door, the only problem being that they tend to put down roots and have to be gently coaxed from the tables come seven or even eight o’clock. Read More...

When new world wines are heavily favoured over their old world counterparts there is always a great default defence ready to hand: “But how will they age?” This is usually wheeled out as an ominous mutter rather than a question, prompting heads to nod wisely in assent. In truth it is the last line of defence against the fruit-driven ‘flavour bombs’ that are storming the mouth-puckering ‘correct’ wines. Clean flavours tend to be favoured over mean ones that “would be better with food” or which “will improve with a decade in the cellar.” This usually happens after some sort of a ‘comparative’ tasting, which would be best labelled ‘competitive’. It is seldom the best way to get a good appreciation of any wine. Read More...

Tags: Australia, Tastings, Semillon

About 25 years ago New Zealand wine hit the world with a bang and it is not an exaggeration to say that in the process a new style of Sauvignon Blanc was born. Pungent, grassy and, some said, smelling of cat’s pee, it rapidly garnered legions of fans around the globe. It is still with us today but what was once a characterful wine has now slid into the cul-de-sac of caricature. This was confirmed for me at the recent Kiwi tasting in Dublin where the Sauvignons I tasted boasted eye-watering pungency and little else. But there were other treasures worth lingering over. Read More...

Tags: New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir