One Hit Wonder
19 January 2011 Filed in: Tastings
About 25 years ago New Zealand wine hit the world with a bang and it is not an exaggeration to say that in the process a new style of Sauvignon Blanc was born. Pungent, grassy and, some said, smelling of cat’s pee, it rapidly garnered legions of fans around the globe. It is still with us today but what was once a characterful wine has now slid into the cul-de-sac of caricature. This was confirmed for me at the recent Kiwi tasting in Dublin where the Sauvignons I tasted boasted eye-watering pungency and little else. But there were other treasures worth lingering over.
For at least a decade now we have been told that the coming thing from New Zealand is Pinot Noir – a statement which is probably true now but certainly was not when first uttered. Back then the ones I tasted were soupy, jammy adolescents, all puppy fat and very little backbone. Today they are generally leaner and crisper and nearly always suffused with sweet, ripe fruit. Therein lies a potential problem. If the fruit gets too ripe it will dominate the wine, while also leading to alcohol levels that hover dangerously around the 14.5% mark. Pinot cannot carry this burden easily, losing the signature freshness and ‘bounce’ on the palate that is its calling card. Handling this thoroughbred is the real challenge for winemakers the world over. Right now the Kiwis are well on their way to becoming Burgundy’s biggest challengers.
Pinot Noir better watch out, however, for, coming up on the inside at an impressive pace is Syrah and it is very definitely Syrah and not Shiraz. It is completely and blessedly different from the Aussie stereotype with its rampant, lavish flavours. The All Black version is a leaner animal altogether, cool and sharp and possibly poised to become New Zealand’s greatest wine style.
© Raymond Blake : 2011
For at least a decade now we have been told that the coming thing from New Zealand is Pinot Noir – a statement which is probably true now but certainly was not when first uttered. Back then the ones I tasted were soupy, jammy adolescents, all puppy fat and very little backbone. Today they are generally leaner and crisper and nearly always suffused with sweet, ripe fruit. Therein lies a potential problem. If the fruit gets too ripe it will dominate the wine, while also leading to alcohol levels that hover dangerously around the 14.5% mark. Pinot cannot carry this burden easily, losing the signature freshness and ‘bounce’ on the palate that is its calling card. Handling this thoroughbred is the real challenge for winemakers the world over. Right now the Kiwis are well on their way to becoming Burgundy’s biggest challengers.
Pinot Noir better watch out, however, for, coming up on the inside at an impressive pace is Syrah and it is very definitely Syrah and not Shiraz. It is completely and blessedly different from the Aussie stereotype with its rampant, lavish flavours. The All Black version is a leaner animal altogether, cool and sharp and possibly poised to become New Zealand’s greatest wine style.
© Raymond Blake : 2011
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