Showing Its Age: Part 1 Landmark Australia Tasting
27 January 2011 Filed in: Tastings News & Views
When new world wines are heavily favoured over their old world counterparts there is always a great default defence ready to hand: “But how will they age?” This is usually wheeled out as an ominous mutter rather than a question, prompting heads to nod wisely in assent. In truth it is the last line of defence against the fruit-driven ‘flavour bombs’ that are storming the mouth-puckering ‘correct’ wines. Clean flavours tend to be favoured over mean ones that “would be better with food” or which “will improve with a decade in the cellar.” This usually happens after some sort of a ‘comparative’ tasting, which would be best labelled ‘competitive’. It is seldom the best way to get a good appreciation of any wine.
Far more sensible was the approach taken at a recent tasting by John McDonnell, who represents Australian wine in Ireland. Seventeen producers were asked to submit three vintages of a single wine for tasting. Inevitably there were stars and there were duds. Top of the pops was the de Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon. The 2007 (10%) was a shimmering gold in the glass with a fabulous caramelised orange rind aroma and thrilling intensity on the palate. The 1997 (11%) was deep amber with figs and spice on the nose and burnt orange on the palate. Both served as a great reminder of just how good Australian ‘stickies’ can be. What to serve them with? A glass will do nicely. Just sip and savour and forget about food.
At the other end of the scale the Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2000 (13%) was there in body but the spirit had long gone. It was badly oxidised. Perhaps it was the cork but too often that is an easy get out clause. The 2008 (13.5%), closed with a screwcap, was a delight. Fresh and tangy. Well balanced. A classy drop.
I will report in greater length on this tasting and on the topic of age-worthiness in a future online article.
© Raymond Blake: 2011
Far more sensible was the approach taken at a recent tasting by John McDonnell, who represents Australian wine in Ireland. Seventeen producers were asked to submit three vintages of a single wine for tasting. Inevitably there were stars and there were duds. Top of the pops was the de Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon. The 2007 (10%) was a shimmering gold in the glass with a fabulous caramelised orange rind aroma and thrilling intensity on the palate. The 1997 (11%) was deep amber with figs and spice on the nose and burnt orange on the palate. Both served as a great reminder of just how good Australian ‘stickies’ can be. What to serve them with? A glass will do nicely. Just sip and savour and forget about food.
At the other end of the scale the Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2000 (13%) was there in body but the spirit had long gone. It was badly oxidised. Perhaps it was the cork but too often that is an easy get out clause. The 2008 (13.5%), closed with a screwcap, was a delight. Fresh and tangy. Well balanced. A classy drop.
I will report in greater length on this tasting and on the topic of age-worthiness in a future online article.
© Raymond Blake: 2011
blog comments powered by Disqus
