My first attempt to find La Ferme de la Ruchotte, buried deep in the Burgundian countryside, almost ended in failure a few years ago. It lies between the villages of Bligny-sur-Ouche and Bessey-en-Chaume, about 15 kilometres north west of Beaune. It was well worth the search for it is one of France’s gastronomic jewels.

Left, Frédéric Ménager and, right, lunch menu 24th March 2008.

Presided over by Frédéric and Eva Ménager Ruchotte has become a firm favourite in the years since and the style of cuisine there might best be described as ‘refined hearty’. Frédéric worked for such luminaries in the French gastro firmament as Alain Chapel and Pierre Gagnaire before setting up on his own, so his credentials are impeccable. As are the simple yet flavourful dishes – you will not eat better chicken than at Ruchotte. The pork is also splendid and the ouefs en meurette are worthy of an article in themselves.

The menu is set and often features what are referred to delicately as ‘variety meats’, in other words offal in all its glory: kidneys, heart, cockscombs, sweetbreads… even at times some unfortunate ram’s ‘crown jewellery’. All are delicious but if you find them challenging adjustments can be made, so don’t be put off.

Frédéric raises a wide variety of ancient breeds of chicken and has even been known to stage ‘chicken tastings’ where an invited group of gourmets chomp their way through a host of different birds. (Read more here.)

La Ruchotte is favoured by many of the top winemakers of Burgundy and the wine list always contains some eclectic gems, though it is not broad in scope. No visit to Burgundy is complete without an extended lunch here. The opening hours are limited so booking is essential. www.laruchotte.blogspot.com

Tags: La Ruchotte, Burgundy, Chicken