Raymond Blake

wine writer

Raymond Blake

wine writer

Raymond Blake

wine writer

Raymond Blake

wine writer

McDonalds in France

At a recent wine tasting in the Ramonet cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet I met a gentleman from Beaune who protested vigorously when I casually mentioned that the historic old town now boasted its own McDonalds. He set me straight by pointing out that it was not IN Beaune but on the outskirts. Once that hair had been split we settled down to tasting the wines but it set me thinking for, contrary to what might be expected, McDonalds is phenomenally successful in France. A few days later I was in the city of Dijon, hungry at lunchtime and in need of a casual bite. Eschewing a thronged McDonalds on rue de la Liberté I searched instead for something more Gallic.

From a distance of 100 metres the bistro looked quite inviting but that was the sum of its charms. Once inside, seated and enveloped in the loud music, the perception changed radically. It continued on a downward trajectory when the croque monsieur arrived. It was dull and flavourless – apart from the carbonised bottom piece of bread – and it was only grim determination allied to appetite that saw it finished. Where was the rich and indulgent, lavishly flavoured tasty treat that is a good croque? Where indeed.

Retracing my steps I came again to the bustling McDonalds and it came to me in a flash that this is why they are so successful in France. They are not competing with good restaurants but with the sort of place I had just been to and they are winning hands down. I had jokingly thought earlier that I should indulge in a quarter pounder with cheese avec frites and now I was wishing that I had. Long may they prosper if the other places don’t pull their socks up.
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