Any lady who has successfully negotiated the cobblestones of Trinity College Dublin’s Front Square in high heels should have no difficulty making her way along the Passage Sainte-Hélène in Beaune (off the Place Carnot) to dine at Ma Cuisine. Others may wish to approach from the Rue Poterne end where the traverse across the cobbles is but a few paces. Either route shouldn’t be too much of a trial for the gentlemen and both will lead you to this gem of a restaurant, long-time favourite of wine producers, merchants and writers.

Everything is simple here. A blackboard on one wall displays the carte and, on the other, the menu du jour. Last Friday I happily plumped for the latter and for the very attractive price of €24 I enjoyed gravadlax-style salmon, rognons de veau in a delicate mustard sauce with a sweep of mashed potato and, to finish, a lovely sloppy slather of fragrant époisses.

They take their wine seriously, in a completely unfussy way, at Ma Cuisine. Glasses are serviceable rather than spectacular and navigating the list is simplicity itself. The white Burgundies are listed from cheapest to dearest, ditto the reds and then an impressive selection of non-Burgundian wines. A gem that appears regularly is the magnificent Bourgogne Blanc from Jean-Francois Coche-Dury. The current vintage is 2008 and at €35 it represents fantastic value. (If you think that is a bit steep for such a nominally humble wine try a sip and then marvel at the speed your doubts disappear.)

I have heard some locals refer to it sneeringly as ‘Maaa Cuisine’, in what they suppose is an American accent. I have no idea what their gripe is, but theirs is certainly the loss. It has just had a re-vamp with new seating and flooring so it more comfortable than previously. Is there a downside? Sadly yes. The opening hours might better be described as closing hours. Ma Cuisine is only open fours days a week: Monday & Tuesday, Thursday & Friday. It is also closed for the whole month of August.

Ma Cuisine: Passage Sainte-Hélène, 21200 Beaune. Tel: +33 (0)3 80 22 30 22.
E-mail: macuisine@wanadoo.fr

Tags: Burgundy, Coche-Dury