Cussed colonels fulminating from the safe depths of overstuffed leather armchairs may have given port a bad image, with the result that young wine drinkers probably regard a glass with as much suspicion as they would one of hemlock. If so, they are missing out on one of the most glorious transmutations ever achieved with the juice of the grape. A great glass possesses glowing depths of flavour allied to a satin texture and memorable length on the finish. A poor one, like poor wine anywhere, is thin and forgettable.

Tasting in the Douro Valley.

Graham’s, one of the most renowned of the port houses, sits at the top of the quality ladder along with others such as Taylor’s and Fonseca, and their winemaker, Henry Shotton, was in Dublin recently to conduct a small tasting. The wines were presented alongside various types of chocolate to see how they matched but I preferred to taste them in isolation.

Here follow my (barely) edited notes:

* LBV 2006
Sweet plump fruit and some liquorice. Not hugely deep but well balanced.

* Six Grapes
Sharper on the nose than the LBV and less well-knit on the palate but has more to say for itself. Nice grippy stuff with plenty of luscious fruit in the Graham’s style.

* Natura
Made from organically cultivated grapes. Lighter and less luscious than the above two. A slightly sharper and fresher flavour gives it enduring appeal.

* 10 Year Old Tawny
The star of the tasting. A lovely deep amber to walnut colour. Nuts and caramelised oranges on the nose are joined on the palate by sweet spice. Gorgeous wine.

* Quinta dos Malvedos 1999
A lovely soft texture, pleasant and easy but thinning on the finish. Not very vigorous. Showing its age?

* 1983 Vintage
Not showing well at all. A ‘reluctant’ flavour. Where’s the glorious, hedonistic, luscious texture, depth and length? Won’t come out to play. Will it ever? Not sure.

NB I have drunk this last wine a couple of times before and always enjoyed it but this bottle was disappointing and when I asked Henry Shotton about it he immediately enquired of the tasting organiser if there was another bottle to hand, tacitly signalling that he wasn’t that happy either. Unfortunately there wasn’t.

Robotic lagares at Graham’s.

Tags: Port, Tawny, Graham's