Domaine de Chevalier
“It is very easy to make big wine and it is very easy to make technical wine but if you extract too much flavour from the grapes then you will mask the soil’s potential… Wine must be long, not large.” Courtesy of eight wines (three white and five red) he then set about expanding on that philosophy. First up was an Esprit de Chevalier Blanc 2009 that was deliciously fresh and balanced. Then a pair of Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, 2007 & 2005. The former tight and forceful, with a mineral-edged acidity that hollered for another decade in the cellar, while the latter was all juicy, fruity charm overlaid on the signature trickle of acidity.
The quintet of reds (all Domaine de Chevalier) started with a 2005 that had crisp, leafy fruit on the nose and a dry hit of tannin on the palate. The components were standing separate which meant that the 2004 easily outshone its more reputed sibling. It was smooth and charming with gentle sweetness and pleasant length. The 2000 was a different animal altogether – nicely evolved on the nose with the brashness of youth now gone. The palate was beautifully complete with a lovely tingle and good intensity. “Very hard to spit,” was my final note. Moving back another decade, the 1990 was beginning to show its age, while two decades further back the 1970 was a revelation. I almost dismissed it on the nose, “faded and frail,” before the palate made up any deficit – and then some. Starting slowly, it came on with gentle insistence before departing on a long, lingering finish that was definitely, “not for spitting.”
Off now to the Anthony Worrall Thompson Culinary Masterclass…
