One of the most sacred rituals for holidaymakers in France is a visit to the local market to stock up on fruit and vegetables, bread and cheese, meat, fish and fowl. Critical judgement will usually be abandoned and in its place will come a dewy-eyed Arcadian vision, which always results in first time visitors buying far more than they need. Arms will be dragged nearly from their sockets as ton-weight bags are lugged laboriously between stalls and the throng of other shoppers. And that is when you spot the clever market shopper, nonchalantly pulling a trolley bag, stopping to examine everything carefully before making a purchase.

That is the key to success in the Saturday market at Beaune, wine capital of Burgundy, by my reckoning one of the best markets in France. Examine everything, choose carefully. Some stallholders are happy to pass you a bag and let you choose your own onions, tomatoes, mushrooms and so forth. Others will make the ‘selection’ for you and this is where you need a gimlet eye and a commanding voice to see that the dodgy fruit or veg that everybody else has turned their nose up at does not make it into your bag. Maintain a little vigilance, keep your wits about you, leave the rose-tinted spectacles in their case and you will be fine.

You will return home with a bounty that might include: the most delicious cooked ham, tomatoes of every shape, size and colour, crunchy-crusted baguettes, cheeses such as fragrant, runny époisses and nutty, aged comté, a poulet de Bresse, some gorgeous strawberries – though beware the wild fraises des bois – highly regarded they may be but they are far too perfumed for my liking. Before leaving, refresh yourself with a glass of wine at the nearby Magnum wine shop on rue Monge or at Le Bistrot Bourguignon further up the same street.

Tags: Beaune, Burgundy, Market, Poulet de Bresse