Allez Chambolle-Musigny
Yesterday being the feast of Saint Patrick I dug deep into the cellar and came up with a gem that a friend had given me some five years ago. It was a Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras 2002, Domaine Michèle & Patrice Rion (13%).
Eagle-eyed readers will notice that, although the vineyard (Les Cras) is mentioned, there is no sign of the designation ‘premier cru’, as might be expected. Les Cras is, after all, one of Chambolle’s better premier crus. The explanation is not simple. In one of Burgundy’s near-incomprehensible anomalies this wine is labelled simply as ‘Les Cras’ because only part of the vineyard is ranked as premier cru. Notwithstanding that, Les Cras is always listed as one of the premier cru vineyards of Chambolle, and almost always without qualification. Is that clear? “Clear as mud,” as a former teacher of mine used to say.
But enough tedious tittle-tattle, what of the wine? It was glorious, a reminder that when Burgundy is on song (and this one sang like a nightingale) there is simply nothing better. The colour was vivid cherry red, not dense. On the nose it was scented, beautifully perfumed with sweet fruit and exotic spice, incense almost. This all carried onto the palate – and then some. Vibrant and balanced with a lovely tingle of red fruit, succulent at first and then firmer with the flavour unfolding all the way to a lingering finish. Splendidly intense yet never heavy. A delight.
Eagle-eyed readers will notice that, although the vineyard (Les Cras) is mentioned, there is no sign of the designation ‘premier cru’, as might be expected. Les Cras is, after all, one of Chambolle’s better premier crus. The explanation is not simple. In one of Burgundy’s near-incomprehensible anomalies this wine is labelled simply as ‘Les Cras’ because only part of the vineyard is ranked as premier cru. Notwithstanding that, Les Cras is always listed as one of the premier cru vineyards of Chambolle, and almost always without qualification. Is that clear? “Clear as mud,” as a former teacher of mine used to say.
But enough tedious tittle-tattle, what of the wine? It was glorious, a reminder that when Burgundy is on song (and this one sang like a nightingale) there is simply nothing better. The colour was vivid cherry red, not dense. On the nose it was scented, beautifully perfumed with sweet fruit and exotic spice, incense almost. This all carried onto the palate – and then some. Vibrant and balanced with a lovely tingle of red fruit, succulent at first and then firmer with the flavour unfolding all the way to a lingering finish. Splendidly intense yet never heavy. A delight.
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